piątek, 19 grudnia 2014

FUBAR Jagdpanzer IV L/70 1:35 Tamiya 35088


Hello again! Unfortunately I'd like to present you mine newest project. "Why unfortunately" you ask, when 2nd World War German tank destroyers are mine beloved subject, and Japanese Tamiya makes good models? Well, feel fee to to read why this model is FUBAR and became mine worst enemy...






Up to this day I had quite good opinion about Tamiya company. Big manufacturer, plenty of products, long stay on the market and with a good renown. Although models aren't on Meng's or Dragon's level, they are properly fitted and well detailed.

Until I started building this Shit. I used capital letter not because of respect for our bodies waist products, but to enhance the description of this model's quality. This plastic is so unmatched, so idiotically designed, has mold lines enormous like Kim Kardashian's ass, further enhanced with push-rod holes so big that they have their own gravity.
I thought that mine previous model (link) was hard, but this is just a drama. In more than 150 acts.

And sorry Tamiya, but I don't give a shit that model was developed in 1975. If you are still offering in in 2014 year, than I'm judging it using 2014 standards for company with Your renown.




If I were Tamiya's CEO, than every single human responsible for fact that in 2014th year I can buy this "something" in mine local shop, branded with logo of such famous and world recognized company, would have worked their humps off with paddles on the galley, doing circles around Australia while towing water skiers. During nights they would be forced to glue this something, and they will rip parts out of the sprues with their teethes, as I would be too afraid to give them any knives.







Building part1

At the beginning I'd like to mark that I don't necessary build mine models step by step, following model's instructions. This review will rather be a kind of compilation of all of model's flaws rather than following from point A to B.
It's quite logical, as it's hard to build entire suspension before painting it.

This first part will orbit around vehicle's suspension.




Let's start from the tracks and suspension. At the beginning, full of enthusiasm I've bought metal tracks from Hungarian company Friulmodel. I must admit that they are completely out of this world, the quality is just amazing (except 2 links which I had to throw away, for about 400 of them). They are also easy to link together, but I recommend you to use 0,4mm drill bit to widen holes for pins (brass 0,3mm wire).
Furthermore, I bought metal barrel from Polish RB Model. Again I'm pleased with what I've received.



On this comparison with original rubber you can see how precise and awesome this metal links are. Completely worth every minute spent on them! Moreover, thanks to their weight they behave like real tracks :)


Unfortunately here we encounter first paradox. After gluing two halves of  driving wheels, I realized that teethes completely don't match. Not only I can't fit new tracks on them- on one part teethes were completely alternate to another, so I wouldn't be able to fit even original rubber "tracks".
Here is the result of long fight with some files and sandpaper:





After long thinking processes I've decided to cut wheels apart and glue them back with a small relocation (1 teeth length twist), just to compensate Tamiya's mistake.
Another issue is the fact that new tracks are narrower to original ones, and they have smaller holes- all that sanding and filing and cutting and gluing finally allowed me to fit new ones.





Talking about suspension, let's continue this act of our tragedy. Tamiya thought that model will have "moving suspension". I'm not sure how does this was supposed to work with this black rubber bushes which are too loose to keep anything together. That's their idea:



In practice, I'm sentenced for this black pieces of rubber as without them there is simply no chance to assemble suspension:


After mounting them situation is a bit better, (wheels still wiggles), buuuut...


...buuut suspension wheels completely don't match each other. I sense lot of sanding here...



All right, as we made short trip through all of the suspension problems, lets move to further ones.
Firstly, mold lines (or plastic overflow). Looking on this photo "Japanese precision" sounds like a really grim joke.
Do i really have to add that on some parts from 3 out of 4 sprues molds were shifted for about 0,5mm? This is even not mold line anymore 0.o


As our journey through subject "precision" continues, here is front hull section fitting (it was too wide and I need to sand down about 0,7-1 mm of plastic):



Wow, in this gap I can stick half of Miliput rodes, as ordinary putty won't help with such wide hole. As a bonus, admire beautiful sink hole (I hope that's the proper english name :P ):


Similar here. I'm having lot of problems with imagining that this is this famous "German precision" of which their vehicles were famous for:


****BONUS***
On the upper photo, in the middle of back plate is small, white piece of plastiacard. According to the instruction, there should be some kind of cap glued, but I couldn't find it. It must have snapped off sprue.




But the best I've left for the end: Ladies and Gentleman, HOLES!

At the beginning, holes at the bottom of the hull. I know they are supposed to be for Tamiya's motor system, which should move the wheels, but despite I watched it's components on photos and videos I can't imagine how it all will fit there, moreover- why more than 1 hole for switch is needed? Srsly they needed all this 5 holes? Couldn't they have made imitations of maintenance ports, like there were in real vehicle?

Yup, plasticard and putty. Again.




BUT THAT'S NOTHING! JUST LOOK HERE!
One "smart head" figured out that one thing all modelers love to have in their work is a huge hole. But not an ordinary, huge hole- let's give them hole to fit their 4 fingers AT ONCE! Yeha, who cares about limits? Know manufacturer's generosity!
Also, take a moment to admire beautiful push-rods holes, which are as discrete as a bomb dropped into latrine. 
Of course in those holes parts are inserted only half way, and from the top, and holes are much better than inserts on the parts, and... oh, let's just stop here.





How do I fill this? Producer should have given some plasticard sheet to help the modeler. I don't know, about A4 size will be enough for this model? I know that this will be "almost" invisible on assembled model, but that's not mine favorite type of entertainment.







Anyway, mine honest congratulations for all readers who were stubborn enough to read this butthurt flow to the end :D That's really first model in mine entire life where there are so many idiotic ideas and huge mistakes "included". 
Really, looking on the amount of work this something needs takes all of mine joy of life. And it's age doesn't explain it's quality.

In the next episode I'll present you how I've dealt with (I hope) all of this problems :)

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